Sewing Sunday Problems!

So...

This pattern has been in my stash for quite a while and I've always loved the pleat detail on the shoulder; and for this weeks sewing Sunday, i thought I'd give it a try. 

Glad I did a toile first...how can one commercial pattern cause so much havoc? See the before and after below to see how much. On to toile number two i think.

For those wondering why the amended pattern looks like it had a fight with a pair of scissors...its probably because it did! ;)

Most commercial patterns are graded to a B cup, so to get it to fit my body shape, i needed to do a full bust adjustment which makes the bust darts larger, tightens the armholes and opens out the core of the bodice. In this instance, all of these changes made the side seam swing out too much so i had to cut in from the side seams and open it out to round the side seam in the hip area.

This may now be slightly too big in areas but i would rather it be too big, than too small. Its way easier to take something in than let it out!