The exhibition space aims to help fashion students and industry followers understand more about the design process, how a collection is developed and the creative methods that are employed at the brand. This is the first company to actively show elements of their archive to the public, and when I spoke to an archive assistant on my visit, she said that the reason they’re doing it is because they believe that it’s important that students understand the process and craftsmanship that goes into building a collection. As a lecturer, I also think this is really important. A collection cannot be built from one piece of inspiration or one experimental sample. It takes a range of ideas and techniques, such as what is on show at McQueen to build a cohesive and desirable range of pieces.
One of the most interesting elements that I discussed with
the archive assistant was the creation and development of the Ophelia dress.
The idea originated from a Victorian silk wedding dress that had been passed
down through the generations of a family from Devon. The dress was scanned in
and floral still-life images were overlaid over the scan. This was then
generated into a print and used as the fabric for a dress in the AW2012
collection. To see the dress in person, at first glance it is difficult to see
the original dress in the print, but on closer inspection, the detail and
structure of the vintage dress can be seen. You can read more about the Ophelia
dress on the McQueen website here: https://www.alexandermcqueen.com/experience/en/alexander-mcqueen-unlocking-stories-ophelia-dress/
I personally found the visit extremely enjoyable. I was able
to look at the detail and cut of the garments close up, take photos and see how
the brand works. I am always interested in how garments are cut and
constructed, and found this exhibition highlighted this excellently. I happened
to visit this on the same day as the Dior exhibition and found that although I
enjoyed the show at the V&A, the organic display, varied content and
close-up experience made the McQueen archive a highlight of a great
fashion-filled day.
McQueen are aiming to continue to display elements of their archive, making a change every 4 months or so. Sign up to their newsletter to get more information about any upcoming changes to the exhibition. You can read more about some of the pieces on show here: https://www.alexandermcqueen.com/experience/en/category/stories/
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